And the Die was Cast

It was a hot and humid 2019 night. We had just knocked back a couple of beers in an Izakaya when the friend quipped, ” You know, driving in Croatia is easy. Anyone can do it!” “You should do it too!”

Doing an all-girls’ road trip to Croatia-Montenegro had always been on our bucket list but we weren’t confident we had the daring and skills to execute it. There’s a lot to consider: road conditions, handling a virgin road trip on our own, driving on a wrong different side of the road.

But there’s nothing beer and bravado can’t overcome.

Except Covid.

That’s how our travel plans in 2020 were derailed and then hastily reinstated in 2023.

Two weeks and 2 days were all we had to pack in the must-sees. Regretfully, we had to drop Istria/Pula and Mostar because they were not on the way from Zagreb to Dubrovnik (long detour).

When To Go

Summer – June, July, August, September – is the best and worst time to visit Croatia. The weather will be perfect but be prepared to jostle with the crowds (elbowing skills come in handy here!). Also, get ready to part with more moolah for higher entrance tickets and hotel fares.

If getting that perfect Instagram shot is not high on the list, the shoulder seasons ie April/May or October is a saner time to visit. Most of the (seasonal) shops, restaurants will be/are still open and the weather’s still cooperative.

We had good weather most days in Croatia and a only couple of rainy days in Montenegro.

Day temperatures were around 22-25°C, night temperatures were at 16-19°C. In the mountains, expect the temperature to be down by 10°C.

Getting There and Around

There are no direct flights from Singapore to Croatia but there are plenty from Europe. Layover at Munich, Frankfurt, Milan, Zurich to connect to Zagreb, Pula, Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik. The choice of layover city depends on the starting point.

Frankfurt was chosen because flights to Frankfurt were cheap and connections to Zagreb were plentiful. With the benefit of hindsight, we realised that we needn’t have to be so fixated on Zagreb.

Unfortunately, Frankfurt airport being as busy as it always gets, expect flight delays without exception. All our flights originating from Frankfurt were delayed for 30-50 minutes. The Croatian airports (Zagreb, Dubrovnik) fared better because of their much smaller passenger loads but I do applaud them for their clean spacious airports and efficient customs clearance processes.

It seems easy to book a rental car directly at the airport; there are long rows of vehicle rental shops outside Dubrovnik airport, but to play it safe, pre-book online. We pre-booked ours online through Rentalcars.com for 11 days at S$130/day (including comprehensive insurance) and collected our car from Carwiz in Zagreb.

If not driving, Uber is an economical and convenient way to move from the airport to town or in town.

Road conditions in Croatia are excellent, those in Bosnia and Montenegro slightly less so but still very decent. The roads visibly narrowed after we crossed the Croatia-Bosnia border; overall they were in good condition, even those that meander into the mountains.

To get used to driving on the different side, watch YouTube videos or simulate with driving game apps ie Car Driving School Simulator. Be over-prepared always, especially when driving in a new country, in a new car and on the opposite side of the road. Practice and caution are the key words.

When passing through toll gates (and there will be many), choose booths that indicate ‘Cash’ or those without the ‘ETC’ signs. A pretty fine (€80) awaits if thou accidentally take the wrong lane and get pulled up later. Pick up the ticket from the entry toll and pay in cash to the staff in the exit toll booth.

Budget

The euro can be used in both Croatia and Montenegro; Croatia joined the eurozone in 2023 and the euro is Montenegro’s de facto currency (although it is not part of the EU).

We spent S$2092/pax (ex air tickets) in Croatia-Montenegro over 12 days or S$174/pax/day for our group of three. Air ticket was S$1554/pax including the flights Frankfurt-Zagreb and Dubrovnik-Frankfurt.

Here’s the cost breakdown.

• Car rental + insurance (11 days) – S$1430 or  S$476/pax or S$43/pax/day;
• Petrol – €108 (S$156) or S$52/pax , S$5/pax/day
• Other transportation (toll fees, car parking fees, bus, taxi) – €89 (S$129) or S$43/pax, S$4/pax/day
• Airbnb, 11 nights – S$467/pax or S$39/pax/night
• Tickets (sights, ferry) – €419 (S$616) or S$205/pax, S$17/pax/day
• Meals (and tips) – €1755 (S$2,547) or S$849/pax, S$71/pax/day

The above are indicative, be sure to factor in inflation and seasonal differences.

In Germany over two days, we spent S$608/pax or S$304/pax/day.

• Meals – €71/pax, (S$103)
• Train tickets – €47/pax (S$69)
• Entrance tickets – €9/pax (S$13)
• Hotel (twin-sharing) – S$424/pax

The Hotspots and Nots

Croatia and Montenegro are indeed chock-full of scenic landscapes and old towns that still retained those charming old-world vibes. But not all lakes and old towns are created equal. Here’s our take on the hits and misses.

The Hits (must-go): Rastoke, Plitvice Lakes, Hvar, Split, Dubrovnik, Durmitor Pass, Budva, Kotor.

The Misses (optional, go only if you absolutely must): Zagreb, Zadar, Black Lake.

The Should-haves (wish we had gone): Pula, Istria.

A Feast for Bards

“First we eat, then we do everything else.”

Food features prominently in our trips. A perfect day is when we are able to reminisce about our day’s experiences while savouring good wine and delicious food.

Croatia did not disappoint in that respect. There are wonderful restaurants sprinkled throughout its little towns and enclaves. No two restaurants feel/look/taste alike because styles vary from place to place.

The cuisine features an eclectic mix of Mediterranean, Italian, Turkish influences and was surprisingly not heavy even for the Asian palate (or stomach). We were constantly surprised and  wowed by their creative fusion of flavours and fresh local produce.

Do some research into the better restaurants in each location and reserve before hand.

While the cuisine is more genteel and delicate in Croatia, Montenegro’s leaned towards the hearty side. Expect lots of meat, usually grilled, with sides of potatoes or rice. But we did come across one or two gems that left lingering impressions.

How to Pack Them In – The Itinerary

We had 16 days of which 2 were spent on the plane. We used 12 days to explore Croatia/Montenegro and the remaining 2 days for Germany. Alas! Germany was not half as interesting as Croatia.

Here is our full itinerary.

Day 0 (26/5) – Singapore|Frankfurt (red eye)
Day 1 (27/5) – Frankfurt | Zagreb
Day 2 (28/5) – Zagreb | Rastoke | Plitvica Selo
Day 3 (29/5) – Plitvice Lakes | Zadar
Day 4 (30/5) – Zadar | Lozovac (Krka) | Split
Day 5 (31/5) – Hvar
Day 6 (1/6) – Split |Ston | Dubrovnik
Day 7 (2/6) – Dubrovnik
Day 8 (3/6) – Dubrovnik | Trebinje | Niksic | Durmitor (Bosaca)
Day 9 (4/6) – Durmitor (Black Lake, Tara Canyon)
Day 10 (5/6) – Durmitor | Skadar | Stari Bar | Kotor
Day 11 (6/6) – Kotor | Lovcen
Day 12 (7/6) – Kotor | Dubrovnik | Frankfurt
Day 13 (8/6) – Heidelberg
Day 14 (9/6) – Bacharach
Day 15 (10/6) – Frankfurt | Singapore
Day 16 (11/6) – Singapore

Tips

#1. There are a lot to explore and savour in Croatia and Montenegro so just spend all the time there. Skip Frankfurt, skip any other layover location however enticed you may be. There’s enough and more to fill your days.

#2. Avoid layover at Frankfurt!!!

#3. Secure accommodation early (3-6 months before) especially if booking via Airbnb as the good/popular/value-for-money ones get snapped up fast. If driving, make sure the apartment/hotel has its own private car parking lot. Avoid staying inside the old towns because parking is usually limited, expensive and it is hard to roll those suitcases on those cobbled streets.

#4. Purchase tickets online whenever possible (ferry, entrance tickets etc). Buy them from official websites (not agents) and book early especially during the high season; sometimes there may be early bird discounts. Prices during high season (summer) will be higher than those reflected here.

#5. Always reserve popular restaurants before hand because they are often booked out. Tips are not mandatory but will be very appreciated, usually 5-10%.

#6. Eating places don’t open early, usually after 8:30am or 9am so if  setting off early (like we do), grab pastries from bakeries/supermarkets the night before.

Now, let the adventure begin!

Visited 27 May – 7 June 2023

Read my detailed trip blogs here:

Croatia-Montenegro – Part 1 (The Falls)
Croatia-Montenegro – Part 2-1 (Hvar)
Croatia-Montenegro – Part 2-2 (Split, Ston)
Croatia-Montenegro – Part 2-3 (Dubrovnik)
Croatia-Montenegro – Part 3-1 (Trebinje, Nikšić, Bosača)
Croatia-Montenegro – Part 3-2 (Stari Bar, Budva, Kotor)
Germany – Epilogue